I remember when Subway first opened on Cedar Lane in Teaneck. I was the only one among my group of high school friends who were appalled. Having lived in Bergen all my life and with plenty of pre-football game memories of having many great sandwiches at the plethora of delis across the county, I couldn’t for the life of me understand why anyone want a fast food sandwich.
I decided that my first stop on my Lunch Break tour of Bergen County would be my favorite deli in the area: Frankie’s Deli in New Milford. Located a small strip mall (I have a feeling that I will be typing those words a lot in these reviews) , Frankie’s has been around since I can remember – and I go back rather far. Back in the day, it was owned by a elderly husband and wife who were as angry as they were sweet. It seemed that they only hired family but I did come across one former employee during my days of working at the Shop-Rite up the block. I had the biggest 8th grade crush on her back then – resulting in about three sandwiches a week – but seeing her later in my high school years, she hardly conjured up those grade-school crush feelings. It was then I realized that my trips to Frankie’s were all about the sandwiches.
I’ve dined at thousands of restaurants in dozens of cities but I’ve never come close to having a usual at any of these places. If I were to have a usual, it would be at Frankie’s. “A medium roast beef, Swiss cheese, lettuce, tomato and mayo,” I say to the younger generation of owners that have since taken over Frankie’s. The deli remains the same except for that strong cheese smell that I remember from my younger days is now gone. The far wall, a line of chips and assorted snack items, along with some Italian canned goods – roasted peppers, artichokes, sardines, a few red sauces and dried pastas. I think I bought a bottle of peppercini’s once but outside of grabbing a bag of chips, the far wall of Frankie’s holds no interest to me.
The deli counter runs the length of the deli. Toward the front door lies prepared foods. Some fresh mozzarella, stuffed mushrooms and peppers, and homemade meatballs. Again, the front counter holds no interest to me but if you’re in a fix for some fresh mozzarella for dinner or even a sandwich, you probably can’t go wrong with Frankie’s.
Enough about the other items at Frankie’s and let’s get down to the meat. The roast beef is perfectly rare and thinly sliced. You’d be surprised how many delis lose sight of this (yeah, I’m looking at you Subway). Thick sliced, medium roast beef should be punishable by one-year away from the slicer (On the second offense, we’ll take the slicer to certain body parts – no three strikes you’re out here.) The French bread is delivered daily and as fresh as can be. Now, you can opt for rolls or standard bread, but I remember one girlfriend I took into Frankie’s years ago, and she asked for a wrap. Let’s just say she is no longer a girlfriend having failed the Frankie’s test.
I’m an appetite guy but the Frankie’s sandwich is hearty, well stuffed and quite a meal. I’ve seen supposedly bug eaters getting bold and going for a large, only to see their eyes swell at what they’ve gotten themselves into. Trust me when I say this: a medium is well worth the price and will satisfy the biggest of appetites. For those with a few mouths to feed, Frankie’s does a six-foot hero with the best of them.
Frankie’s adorns their sandwiches with shredded lettuce and fresh sliced tomatoes for me and about any other vegetable you can imagine for others The mayo has a sweeter taste to it, a little less sweet than Miracle Whip but it’s what comes to mind when digging in. The sandwich is presented in plain white butcher paper – as if you’d have it any other way.
Since the new ownership, Frankie’s has a brand new menu with plenty of sandwich options for the crowd that needs help making up their mind or ones who have never been in a real deli. The ‘Sloppy Joe’ with roast beef, Swiss cheese, Cole Slaw, and Russian Dressing is a great sandwich, and not as messy as you’d think. They do a great selection of hot sandwiches – try the pastrami on rye with mustard (as if I had to tell you that) or the meatball sub made with those great looking meatballs from the front of the deli counter. The Italian Sub is what they’re famous for – topped with a salad of peppers, olive oil, and vinegar. Frankie’s also has a great selection of sodas – extending past the normal Coke and Pepsi and going into Boyland’s and Jones NY turf. Frankie’s has always blazed a progressive beverage trail – I remember seeing Snapple there for the first time back in the late-80’s. (Note to Snapple – bring back the French Cherry Soda – who cares if it wasn’t made from the best stuff on Earth).
The staff at Frankie’s are friendly and polite. If you go on a Monday, make sure you check the Giant highlights before your arrival for some lively banter. In baseball season, scan the Yankee box scores. (As a Jet and Mets fan, I never felt welcomed into the Frankie’s sports conversation). They greet regular customers by name and yes, they know their orders by memory. Sliced meats and cheeses are also available and they do catering for parties and special events.
Frankie’s does the classic deli sandwiches as good as I’ve ever had. Stay true to the sandwiches of dare I say, yesteryear, and you’ll be in good shape. Roast beef, the Italian sub, hot Reuben’s or Corned Beef are the pathways to a delicious lunch. However, given their expertise in other areas, I wouldn’t be surprised if Frankie’s knocks any sandwich out of the park.
